CALL THEM INDEPENDENT, RENEGADE, OR JUST MOM-AND-POP, but most of Oregon’s 387 wineries are tiny, family-run affairs that produce fewer than 5,000 cases a year—which makes visiting wine country something of a treasure hunt. Just finding the tasting rooms (many located on unmarked, winding gravel roads) can leave you feeling a rush of discovery, to say nothing of the first sip, which, in many instances, might be savored while taking in an unobstructed view of a certain volcano. And often, the person pouring your flight also planted and farmed the grapes, and transformed them into the wine you’re sipping. So, while a weekend in the wine country can certainly be about finding the best pinots and chardonnays, it’s also a way to connect with the spirit of Oregon. Let us show you some routes—and some of the roots.