AT HER REFRESHINGLY relaxed Kir Wine Bar, Amalie Roberts stocks everything from bonarda to txacoli—but her true love is rosé, that eternal underdog of wines. Though the French have always prized rosé for its food-pairing potential, American oenophiles have consistently raised an eyebrow at the blushing beauty. Until now. Over the past few years, growing availability has shed light on a vast world of this affordable wine, from the herbal and fresh to the dark and dusty. We asked Roberts to share notes on a few of her favorites.

2011 Alois Lagedar Lagrein Rosé $8 This fresh and fruity wine from one of Italy’s top biodynamic wineries would be perfect for a picnic of pâtés and pickled vegetables.

2011 Domaine Montrose Rosé $7
Grapes for this earthy rosé from southern France are harvested at night to preserve the fruit’s bright, fresh flavor. Pair it with grilled fish on the patio for an instant vacation.

Cerasuolo di Montepulciano La Valentina 2011 $7
This easy-drinking bottle balances ripe strawberry flavors with lively acidity and a pleasant tang—ideal with fresh tomato salads or hot-off-the-grill pizza.

Clos Canarelli 2011 Corse Figari Rosé $50/bottle
Corsica is a rosé drinker’s mecca, and this lightly floral, deeply mineral wine packed with notes of pomegranate and cherry is one of the region’s best. Drink this with anything, anytime.