STAY

THE INN AT MANZANITA
innatmanzanita.com; from $179
Don’t look for coastal kitsch at this perfectly situated inn, tucked inside a lush patch of property abutting Manzanita’s main drag. Split among four buildings, many of the inn’s 14 modern, tastefully appointed rooms boast colossal hot tubs, and second-floor units serve up peeks of the sun as it plunges into the Pacific.

OLD WHEELER HOTEL
oldwheelerhotel.com; from $99
Built in 1920, when Wheeler’s lumber industry flourished, the Old Wheeler Hotel has become the historic heart of this tiny rail town, minutes southeast of Manzanita. A stay here feels like a step back in time, into a world of antique furniture, hardwood floors, and ornate décor. Overlooking Nehalem Bay, the hotel’s eight elegantly dressed rooms come with water views that treat guests to an endless show of swooping eagles and herons.

EAT

NEHALEM RIVER INN
nehalemriverinn.com
Rising from the banks of the Nehalem River, this namesake inn is a bastion of white tablecloths, fine wines, and unforgettable food in a land of paper napkins and fried fish. Chef-owner Ryan Hamic dreams up inventive dishes like crispy roasted quail with lentils, chard, chorizo, and cherry syrup, while his wife, Nicole, plies guests with worldly wines, her homemade desserts, and plenty of charm.

RISING STAR CAFÉ
risingstarcafe.com
With just 40 seats in one tiny house, Rising Star feels more like someone’s dining room than a restaurant. Nina Simone croons through the speakers, and proprietors Pepi Gabor and Ron Allen welcome you like a long-lost friend. And they serve you like one, too: you’ll need a second stomach to polish off the plates of seared tuna and richly spiced shrimp pasta that parade out of their kitchen.

WANDA’S CAFÉ & BAKERY
12870 H St, Nehalem; 503-368-8100
Bustling between vintage toasters, rotary phones, and television fish tanks, Wanda’s friendly staff serves plates loaded with steaming French toast, eggs benedict, and all manner of omelets with a lighthearted (but heavy-handed) side of ’50s diner frippery.

DO

SLEEPY MONK COFFEE ROASTERS
sleepymonkcoffee.com
For us spoiled city folk, coastal coffee is nothing to write home about. But Sleepy Monk presents a welcome exception, with 21 beautifully roasted organic coffees, such as the robust Monastery blend, all available at the cozy tasting room and roastery on Cannon Beach’s main drag.

GREAT NORTHERN GARLIC COMPANY
Laneda Avenue and Highway 101, Manzanita; 503-368-7700
Don’t be fooled: this isn’t a mere garlic lover’s paradise. It’s a picnic promised land packed with a local jams, Blue Heron cheese, handmade chocolates, Northwest wines and microbrews, and anything else you fancy for lunch on the sand. And if you show up on the right day, the beach just might come to you—in the form of fresh crabs cooking on the patio.

Evoo

Evoo Cooking School

EVOO CANNON BEACH COOKING SCHOOL
evoo.biz
True foodies know the satisfaction quotient of any meal skyrockets when you’ve cooked it yourself. Evoo owners Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery are well attuned to this formula after seven years of teaching casual, hands-on classes. Even better, at Evoo (named after extra-virgin olive oil), you’ll enjoy the satisfaction—and delicious results—of the whole cooking process, minus the cleanup.