DROP THE T-SHIRTS, gentlemen. The “dandy” trend calls for leaving the old band shirt on the shelf in favor of fineries like pocket squares and sport coats. The stately look first emerged in the early 19th century among a new middle-class of British and French men aspiring to appear more aristocratic. Writers like Charles Baudelaire turned dandyism into a philosophy of life and, later, Oscar Wilde made it a brand. Today, the look has been re-embraced by the likes of Kanye West, Tom Ford, and—in Portland—designers like Brent Collier, Duchess, and Pino, who specialize in sharp-looking suits and accessories as an alternative to Portland’s overly casual style. If you haven’t yet taken notice of Portland’s growing flock of well-dressed dandies, here are six tips for tailoring your own version.
1. Every gentleman owns a sport coat. Or six. Err on the side of fun (bold colors or plaid) rather than frumpy (black and boxy). Collier plaid jacket, $850 (sold as suit) at Collier
2. When picking dress shirts, fit takes the stage. Make sure the shoulder seam hits right at the tip of your shoulder and the sleeve falls just past your wrist. Mauro Tozzi for Collier dress shirt, $215 at Collier
3. Opt for a flat-front twill chino in beige or gray, and let your accessories do the talking. Xagon Man casual pants, $165 at Collier
4 The ultimate dandy touch hangs around your neck. Acceptable options include a cravat, necktie, or bow tie. Under no circumstances are you to wear anything resembling a bolo. Even if you’re from Texas. Especially if you’re from Texas. Pino evergreen raw silk bow tie, $65 at pinoportland.com
5. The true mark of a gentleman: the pocket square. Show some diversity by varying your folding styles (see “Hankie Doodle”). Pino Aqua Silk Dupioni pocket square, $30 at pinoportland.com
6 Finally, slide on a sockless loafer if the dress code—and the weather—permits. Moods of Norway Chukka boots, $185 at Collier
Hankie doodle | Pocket Square Styles
|The PUFF||The TWO-POINT||The Winged Puff|
|Pinch the square in the middle, then fold in half horizontally and stuff it in the pocket, pinch side up.||
Fold the square in half, slightly askew,to create two points; then fold the sides to fit within the width of your pocket.
|Fold the square like an envelope and tuck it in with the top flap sticking out.
This Month in Fashion
Fourth Annual Fashion’s Night Out // Gold // Layering // Bold Brows // Corselette Bras // Pendleton’s New “Portland Collection” Arrives // AGAVE DENIM 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY