Typically, autumn in the Willamette Valley is warm and dry, but in 2007, the season took a decidedly soggy turn. As a result, that year’s grape harvest tended to produce thin, watered-down wines—but one Oregon producer, Ken Wright Cellars, bailed out its yield with admirable aplomb. Using a special low-temperature vacuum, Wright boiled away excess water from the grape juice, preserving the delicate berry scents of pinot noir without imparting any stewed-fruit flavors. Rather than merely surviving the weather, these wines thrived under Wright’s deft hand. Here are two pinot noirs from the winery’s recently released 2007 vintage.