Passover Redux: The Portland Seder
Lincoln’s Jenn Louis serves up Passover options for discerning palates.
Oy. Passover is coming. For the Jewish people, that means a seven-day, low-carb culinary ordeal of sorts. The traditional Seder—highlighted by a dreaded pinch on the cheek, quivering gray gefilte-fish balls, and cloyingly saccharine Manischewitz wine—spells disaster for some three generations of Jewish-Americans. For those Semitic Portlanders who have escaped the guilty clutches of their Ashkenazi (Eastern European) relatives this year, Lincoln’s Jenn Louis has a much-welcomed alternative.
Beginning sundown, April 18 and running through April 25, Lincoln Restaurant will be offering a Passover “service,” which includes souped-up versions of Seder classics. Jenn Louis’s house-made gefilte fish, for example, swaps out old-country canned pike for a yummy mix of halibut and salmon, delicately poached in court bouillon with a zip of lemon zest. Matzoh, of course, will be available in addition to the usual bread service, and the dessert menu will feature crunchy meringue cookies with a fruit conserva (strawberry perhaps, if the weather allows).
Lincoln will also open on April 24 (Easter Sunday) to kick off their new spring menu, complete with the requisite bunny- and lamb-focused flavors, to remind us that spring is really here.