Typically, autumn in the Willamette Valley is warm and dry, but in 2007, the season took a decidedly soggy turn. As a result, that year’s grape harvest tended to produce thin, watered-down wines—but one Oregon producer, Ken Wright Cellars, bailed out its yield with admirable aplomb. Using a special low-temperature vacuum, Wright boiled away excess water from the grape juice, preserving the delicate berry scents of pinot noir without imparting any stewed-fruit flavors. Rather than merely surviving the weather, these wines thrived under Wright’s deft hand. Here are two pinot noirs from the winery’s recently released 2007 vintage.

This article appeared in the August 2009 issue of Portland Monthly Magazine.